1. The smell of an old drunk
I don't know how I manage to avoid this whiff when overseas, but somehow I do. Maybe it's because the sober Finns generally keep their distance when around strangers, so the only ones brushing up against you at the airport are those on a bender. And by a bender I mean a dedicated lifestyle of consistently drinking as much as you can as often as you can. You can usually tell them from their skin colour, sometimes even before you smell them. It is that strange purplish red, too dark and bruise-like to be just sunburned, although it's probably that too.
2. I am making people uncomfortable
When in New Zealand, I get used to routinely smiling and nodding at strangers, especially when sharing small spaces such as buses or lifts. Everybody does this. If the situation lasts for long enough, you will have to make some small talk to ease the tension. NOT doing this makes people uncomfortable. In Finland, it is exactly this polite nodding and smiling that makes people uncomfortable. Fear flashes across their eyes as they try to calculate what's going on. Are you mentally unstable? Are you going to talk to me? So they quickly look away and pretend I'm not there. It usually takes me a couple of days to tune down my public behaviour.
3. Tinny sound of heavy metal
In New Zealand, this musical style never enters my folksy-indie-hipster existence. I never really listened to it, even when I used to live here, but it still brings back memories. It's mainstream, a part of this country's soundtrack. It's clean, flawless, standardised, safe... and oh so tinny. It makes me long for something simple, full bodied, imaginative and bold. Like My Brightest Diamond.
4. The delightful exceptions
To every rule, there is always an exception. In Finland, the rule of 'expressionless faces on public transportation' is occasionally broken. And if you don't follow the local protocol and respond to the searching smile or the offhand comment, you are rewarded with the most genuine, meaningful encounter. Our latest one happened on the bus 74 - a senior man with an amputated leg and an incredibly sunny attitude.
5. Inhabitable conditions
We took Lukas for his first outing in the city. He took one look at the scenery with the icy wind on his face, turned around in the stroller and pulled a blanket over his head. Even a child knows there's something wrong with this weather. Were human beings ever meant to live this far up north? This is not where human race originated. It's only with the help of modern technology that we are able to live here, somewhat comfortably. Most people are vitamin D deficient. Many are depressed. Are we genetically adjusted enough to really thrive in these condition? Will we ever be?
6. Strange children
In my experience, toddlers usually smile back when you smile at them. At least if you give it bit of time or make a funny face. Only in Finland have I smiled at a little one, cute as a button in their Michelin man outfit, who just stares blankly at me. Not scared or shy, just not reacting.
On one train ride, we also met an older child (6-7 years), who clearly wanted to play with Lukas. He was very giggly and kept making eye contact, but wouldn't talk to us. We asked for his name and introduced ourselves, but he just smiled. Sami ended up naming him "Tossavainen" and he seemed happy with that. I wondered if he was taught not to talk to strangers.
7. Accidental exercise
When relying on public transport, you end up walking and running quite a bit. Probably less if you know exactly how it works, but I suspect our car-dependent lifestyle in Auckland is way more sedetary than that of an average Helsinkian (if that is a word?). I might be in better shape if I lived here and could actually pull off these skinny jeans I borrowed from my sister that are so popular in this town.
8. Not owing anyone anything
In Finland, it's less likely for anyone - even your friend - to ask you for a favour. In situations where Kiwis expect reciprocity, Finns strive for self sufficiency and extreme hospitality. Instead of a potluck barbecue, they invite you for a home cooked meal where everything is provided. You won't be even asked to bring the wine. They may expect an invitation from you one day, but not necessarily. I remember thinking like this when we lived in Finland - I wanted to be hospitable, but not 'owe anyone anything'. Maybe that's why Finland has very low national debt, where as New Zealand is maxed out.
We are in a position where we have to let Finns help us, cook for us and lend stuff to us. Coming from the Kiwi mindset it's a little easier. I also learned from the Mentalist (hehe) that if you want to gain someone's trust, you have to get them to give you something. That makes them feel invested in you. Somehow, when living in Finland and trying to be self sufficient I was missing out on all this.
I wonder if the Mentalist advise works on state level. Does the rest of the world feel more invested in New Zealand or Greece than Finland?
Lukas the Flying Toddler
After back-to-back 30 hours of flying / airport navigating, it has taken me two days to shake the persistent flight headache and fogginess. Only the stuffy nose remains. I can't complain about the flights though. Lukas turned out to be the perfect travel companion. I get the feeling that people don't believe me when I tell them how relaxed, happy and excited our 2-year-old was on the plane. It sounds too good to be true. What can I say? He loves cartoons and snacks, sleeps in any position and is not bothered about takeoff, landing or being surrounded by strangers. Instead, he kept thanking us for every flight "kiitos helikoppoteri", excited to go to "kauppakesku" (mall), which I find is a very accurate description for an airport.
Okay... I gotta go now for a walk in the crispy wintery air of Ristiina, the lovely middle-of-nowhere of Finland where we arrived yesterday. Will add pics later :)
Hyva etta meni lennot hyvin! Ajattelinkin teita monta kertaa etta mitenkahan menee.. Katri D.
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